The ascent to Refuge Margherita is the dream and mission for many mountain enthusiasts. Learn more about Margherita hut prices and advice for the climb.
The desire to be outdoors, the search for adventure and social networks have turned the spotlight on this destination. However, achieving this goal requires the right mental approach and adequate preparation as the ascent to the highest refuge in Europe is pure mountaineering, and an activity which by its nature requires dedication, preparation and experience.
The trip to Capanna Margherita is a challenge with oneself, a test of resilience, a desire to satisfy, a journey into one's personal history and above all an irrational and irrepressible adventure in a direct confrontation between emotions and surprise.
It is an ascent in high mountains, which can be planned and organized but it is necessary to consider that one must indulge the moods of the wind, the snow, the altitude and sometimes it becomes necessary to know when to give up. It's a journey that begins when you start wanting it and never ends.
Do not think it is for all mountaineers, and those who do high elevation gain trekking, good fitness level, and motivation. To reach Capanna Margherita, you face an uphill difference in height of 1100 meters (consider that the climb is interspersed with a slight descent) on the day you reach the summit and therefore you need to be in good physical shape allows you to reach Punta Gnifetti in no more than 5 hours. So, the answer is no, it's not for everyone, but only for those who train and prepare with dedication.
The ascent does not involve any technical difficulties in particular. There are no exposed sections and rocks to tackle; it is a long route on the glacier to be done in a roped team because it crosses large areas where there are numerous crevasses. Your guide is an expert, but the environment is impressive and walking among the fissures in the snow requires a unique ability to adapt to any given situation.
The climb can be done from the beginning of June to mid-September. With climate change underway, the chances of finding optimal land in June are greater than in July. From August, the drop in temperatures and possible snowfall often make the ascent easier.
Going up to the refuge is not in itself a certainty of getting altitude sickness, but it can be possible even if in a slight or moderate form. The real reason why we feel unwell when we sleep at the Mantova and Gnifetti refuges is not so much the altitude (about 3,600 meters above sea level), but the ability and the physiological speed of our body to adapt to the conditions of pressure and quantity of oxygen.
To reach our goal, the first 3000mt are done in just a few hours meters by car and then the ski lift and thus, our body struggles to adapt. Slowing down is the better choice.
The slower the route, the surer the guarantee of acclimatization and ultimately, also the success of the trip because reducing the hiking time means the possibility of hiking at a slower pace. Stopping for a day at 1200/1600 meters can help a lot.
The ascent in 2 days is the most common choice and is called the classic Margherita. To reach the refuge it is necessary to aim for a maximum of 5 hours of ascent plus 2.30/3.00 hours since the roped parties must reach the destination in good time so that the return does not take place with temperatures that are too high for the conditions of the glacier to be optimal.
The maximum number allowed for an ascent to Refuge Margherita is a maximum of 5 mountaineers per Alpine Guide.
You need layered mountain clothing, to protect yourself at temperatures that can drop as low as -20. Clothing must be warm, comfortable and that can be added or removed. Waterproof, warm, ankle-high boots are essential. Indispensable technical equipment consists of crampons, harness, ski poles, a 30-litre backpack and an ice ax when requested by the guide who accompanies you.
The ascent with a close-knit group of friends is ideal because when under stress, it is not always easy to find the correct rhythm between climbing partners, who may have different levels of preparation. However, to reduce the costs of the climb, it is possible to participate in a group climb, also called a Collective. Those who participate in a collective group must be aware that a Roped team, is a non-homogeneous group of people (max 5) who depend on each other and therefore it is necessary to adapt to the rhythm of the weakest. In case of need, if one of the participants feels unwell, the guide can evaluate, at his sole discretion, to return the whole group to the valley.
Yes, if you have experience and if you have a climbing partner with whom you share the fundamental notions of behavior and conduct of a roped party on a glacier. The ascent to the Margherita hut is considered one of the easiest 4000m, but it is still an ascent on a glacier that reaches 4554 meters; to tackle it in safety, requires mountaineering competence and knowledge of the mountains. Our Alpine guides are trained professionals, who know the techniques for walking on a glacier, they know how to evaluate the climatic conditions and the change in temperatures and know how to measure the stability of the snowpack as well as manage the psychological difficulties of people under fatigue stress.
| with 1 alpinist | 1050€ |
| with 2 alpinists | 610€ |
| with 3 alpinists | 470€ |
| with 4 alpinists | 390€ |
| with 5 alpinists | 350€ |
Learn more about Margherita hut prices and programms to climb the 4554 m of Punta Gnifetti where Refuge Margherita stands.
Refuge Margherita in 2 days
Refuge Margherita in 3 days
Refuge Margherita on foot from Alagna or Gressoney
With the Monte Rosa guides you will find the right route for you to reach the highest balcony of Europe, where the view gets lost between infinite peaks, while entrusting your safety to a professional and your desires to the passion of those born in these mountains.
